Оля Должикова — профессиональный визажист с многолетним опытом работы на телевидении, показах, в fashion и рекламных съемках. А еще она — преподаватель собственной школы визажа, и с сегодняшнего дня — постоянный автор нашей бьюти-колонки. Итак, ей слово.
Многим из нас приходилось слышать от мужчин, что без косметики мы выглядим куда привлекательнее. Но отваживаются на это немногие. Как ни крути, «надев» на лицо тон, тушь, тени и помаду, мы чувствуем себя куда увереннее. Как совместить два в одном? Сегодня мы поговорим о натуральном макияже и о том, как выглядеть на все сто с минимальным количеством косметики на лице.
Итак, что такое макияж nude и как выполнить его грамотно.
Базой может выступать как обычный увлажняющий крем, так и специальные средства: устраняющие жирный блеск, сужающие поры или обладающие эффектом мгновенной подтяжки, продукты со светоотражением и цветокоррекцией (об этом и многом другом в дальнейшем поговорим подробнее).
Пока же остановимся на увлажняющем креме. Желательно чтобы текстура крема была легкой, быстро впитывалась и не оставляла на лице жирной пленки. Такие средства обычно не бывают густыми и жирными, а напротив текучие и похожи на эмульсию. Узнать вы их можете по упаковке: не банка, а тюбик или стик.
Помните: все средства на лицо мы наносим по массажным линиям.
Идеален для натурального макияжа тон-флюид. Это легкое тональное средство с небольшой кроющей способностью. Оно не предназначено для запудривания, и кожа с ним чувствует себя очень комфортно.
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Тон не должен создавать на лице эффект маски, перекрывая ваш румянец или пигментацию. Веснушки, родинки — все это естественно и очень мило (вспоминаем слова мужчин). Если вас смущают тени под глазами или невовремя появившийся прыщик — покройте эти участки корректором, от тона он отличается более плотной текстурой. В масс-маркете это, как правило, стики и карандаши-корректоры.
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Раз уж наша задача — максимальный natural look, плотный тон лучше приберечь на вечер.
На что еще обращаем внимание при тонировании?
-естественное сияние. Эффект мерцания можно добавить с помощью хайлайтера, нанесенного на бликовые зоны лица — спинку носа, надскуловые кости, центр побородка и кромку над верхней губой.
-правильный выбор тона. От природы наша кожа не бывает абсолютно матовой, признак здоровой, увлажненной кожи — это легкое светоотражение. Его можно добиться с помощью тональных средств содержащих силикон, имеющих водную основу или с содержанием светоотражающих частичек. И не устану повторять: тон лица не должен создавать границу по линии роста волос или с шеей! Подбирайте средство тон в тон с оттенком вашей кожи и не забывайте, что в году 4 сезона. Одежду мы меняем, а тональное средство — нет? Неверно!
-никакой пудры. Не делайте кожу бархатистой и абсолютно матовой — это прерогатива вечернего макияжа. Можно использовать прозрачную фиксирующую пудру или оттеночную минеральную, но тонким слоем и кистью, а не спонжем.
Вновь на пике моды широкие брови: с подчеркнутой формой как на показах Alexander Wang и Valentino; «дикорастущие» как у Burberry, Diane Von Furstenberg и Balmain; широкие брови-стрелки на дефиле Frankie Morello и Narciso Rodriguez.
Подчеркиваем брови с помощью специального карандаша. Он должен быть именно «для бровей» — сухой текстуры и плотно прокрашивающий кожу под волосками. Такой не будет «плыть» в течение дня.
Можно использовать и матовые тени натуральных оттенков. Если вы обладательница «непослушных» бровей — уложите и расчешите их с помощью специального геля и щеточки.
Макияж nude face диктует в образе только натуральные и естественные оттенки. И макияж век — не исключение. Выбираем светло-бежевые, карамельные, жемчужные, ореховые, пудровые тона. Текстура лучше матовая или шелковая, с эффектом мягкого глянца. Большую выразительность взгляду придаст эффект кошачьих глаз. Иначе говоря, это — растушеванная стрелочка. Лайнером или карандашом (на ваш выбор) проводим линию по контуру верхнего века от внутреннего уголка глаза, постепенно утолщая ее, и слегка приподнять вверх у внешнего уголка глаза. Затем немного размываем с помощью кисти и закрепляем тенями на тон темнее, чем основной оттенок.
5. Подчеркнем скулы и нанесем румяна
Скулы подчеркиваем бронзантом натурального оттенка на 2-3 тона темнее вашей кожи, для этой же цели можно использовать темную пудру. Матовая лучше подойдет для делового макияжа.
Нанесите румяна по выступающей линии скул и тщательно растушуйте пальцем, спонжем или кисточкой. Освежаем также зону улыбки, ее же называют «baby face». Задача румян придать лицу свежесть, там, где оно естественным образом может зарумяниться. Кроме щек можете легко затронуть лоб, мочки ушей, подбородок и виски.
Ресницы лучше накрасить темно-коричневой тушью, если вы блондинка или ваши брови светлого тона. Для шатенок и брюнеток вполне подойдет черная. Лучше не используйте водостойкую, она делает ресницы слипшимися, поэтому если вы не планируете идти в бассейн, плакать или гулять под дождем, то вполне подойдет обычная тушь.
Мой выбор — тушь на гелевой основе, она хорошо разделяет, удлиняет и дает объем. И лично мое мнение: резиновая кисточка в туши — глупость. Никакой длины и объема, не прокрашивает ресницы у корней да еще и собирает на себя много туши, которая на ресницах остается комками.
Верхние ресницы красим вертикальными движениями, нижние-горизонтальными.
Опять-таки приветствуется прозрачность и благородный, естественный блеск без перламутра. Подойдет даже прозрачный блеск или бальзым для губ. Чем естественнее — тем лучше.
На показах миланской Недели моды главной тенденцией в макияже стала простота: визуально чистая кожа и минимальное количество косметики. Единственный акцент, который позволяли себе визажисты — это глаза. Доверимся авторитетному мнению!
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